Have similar issues with RF260B... Looking at several posts, many people say to do a "forced defrost" which some have said is "fd" in the menu. My frige and freezer were BOTH frozen over. I discovered on the ...260...model that "fd" is freezer defrost and "rd" is refrigerator defrost. The heater gets hot enough to sizzle water droplets when it is on. After doing the fridge twice in too big a hurry, we broke the fragile styrofoam edge of the panel. Now I am not sure if the cold air flow will be correct. Also one of the plastic fan blades has a piece missing so I am sure we did that too. I put copper (#14) wire around both (freezer and fridge) elements and threaded it down the drain tube. There is a 90-degree turn so thinner copper worked better. I suspect the first time we only made things worse because we "fd'd" the freezer and melted out the fridge coil with a blow dryer. I am pretty sure the freezer just refroze. So next time, I am planning on emptying the fridge and freezer completely (dry ice is available at some walmarts and some grocery stores). Unplugging and waiting 24 hours with doors open, towels down, and a fan blowing. With the back panel off, you can tell if either or both drain tubes are clogged (some brands need these tubes cleaned occaisionally or similar issues occur).
So like everyone here, I've dealt with this exact issue for about 2 years now. I've tried all suggestions (installing new metal tab into drain hole, redoing the insulating seal on the panel cover, tilting the unit back, etc) and still every month or so, ice will creep into the fan and cause the dreaded noise that signals it's time to bust out the hair dryer again.
I finally got a hold of a repair guy that seemed to be fully aware of the design flaw and had his own solution which I'll share here. He found that installing a secondary defrost heater unit at the top near where the ice first forms appears to prevent it from building up enough to block the fan. I took a peek at the model number and it appears to be SH226 40W - Universal Refrigerator Defrost Heater. He connected the leads into the existing connectors for the heater so it'll turn on whenever the original heater kicks on. I cannot say for sure this will fix the issue as it hasn't been long enough to really verify, but I hope this might be of some use for anyone still struggling with this.
I've marked the locations where he connected the wires. He also had to punch a hole in the middle of it to get it to fit around the little mounting screw/bracket there in the center.
EDIT: It appears this is what he used: https://www.amresupply.com/part/SH226-UNIV-FOIL-HEATER-10-5X10-5-40W
Below is the power use of my RF263BEAESR French door refrigerator on a typical day. I have marked the three defrost cycles that occurred during the 24-hour period. This is fairly typical. Defrost cycles average a bit longer in the summer months when there's more humidity in the air.
Please see Page 23 of this discussion for a longer description showing photos of the likely manufacturing problem that was the root cause. Wires had been misaligned which caused air leaks in the evaporator cover, compromising air circulation and defrosting efficiency.
I fixed the evaporator cover gasket seal on April 12, 2019. So far, there has been no return of the dreaded fan noise and the defrost cycles have not increased in length. That's my best indication that I made a long term fix. Please LIKE this fix so others can find it more easily.
I remain disappointed with Samsung support. In my view, they have not owned up to a manufacturing problem. Otherwise, not that it is not a daily bother, I do like the fridge in other respects. I do, however, check the web-based power use twice a day anyway!
I'm replying to this old post with the hopes of being to help someone. I too had this fridge freeze up multiple times with the ice build-up hitting the fan. I never could understand how the ice built up high enough to hit the fan, but I replaced the defrost element, the defrost thermostat, temp sensor etc. I also followed other advice about running a piece of metal down the drain hole to melt ice, tipped the fridge back, blah blah blah.
After three different episodes of this excruciating exercise in insanity, I tore the fridge apart again to let it defrost, only this time I got the back panel off soon enough to see the ice was around the refrigerant lines where they came through the back of the fridge. Now it made sense. Air was getting in where that cheap black tape and stupid insulation Samsung uses and freezing on the cold lines.
SOLUTION THAT FINALLY WORKED - I removed all the tape and soaking wet insulation with needle-nose pliers and a knife, being careful not to nick the copper lines. After letting it sit a while to dry out, I foamed it all nice and secure with closed-cell expanding foam, let it dry solid, then trimmed it with a razor blade. Again, being careful of the copper lines. Closed it up and have not had it ice up again. It's been five weeks now and no issues. I hope this helps even one person. This fridge was only three years old when the problems started and my wife wanted to chuck the thing out the back door.
@userZBgPMkaXxf - I finally got up the nerve to perform your method of preventing ice build-up hitting the fan, by removing Samsung's porous insulation around the copper tubes and foaming it with closed-cell expanding foam. Please see attached photos.
A note on the old insulation around the tubing - the insulation was wet, as you had mentioned. It seems the water was wicking upwards, through the opening where the tubes pass and possibly into the insulated cavity behind the white back wall. More on this cavity is discussed below.
Once the ice was removed, I noticed that it appeared the ice build-up in the area of the copper tubes had actually caused a number of hairline cracks in the white plastic back wall. The cracking was probably due to the force of expansion of the ice. These cracks may have allowed water to seep through the wall, and into the insulated cavity, which would likely freeze, compunding the issue. This maybe explains the "cold" spots in the back wall, that could be felt with my hand from inside and outside the refrigerator. This is an indication that the insulated wall is either not sufficient, or it is soaking wet and no longer is capable of insulating. There is no easy way to access this area to dry it out, other than a major disassembly of the refrigerator. This I will not do! I am considering adding (gluing) a layer of foam board on the exterior back of the refrigerator in the areas of the cold spots. For now I taped over the interior hairline cracks with aluminum foil tape, hoping to seal out water that occurs from any future episodes of ice-build-up.
Thank-you for the suggestion, which made perfect sense to me. I hope this method continues to work for you and me (!!).
It looks like you did a nice job. It was a refrigeration guru that looked at my photo of the ice location and said he was pretty confident that the cause was air infiltration. The wet insulation seems to back up his thoughts. Today however, after two and a half months, I had to take it apart again as ice was hitting the fan. The ice was on the horizontal cooling lines this time.
I think I missed one tiny spot so I put a little more expanding foam and this time I added pipe insulation around the horizontal lines. Everything else looked good. We shall see. Too expensive of a fridge to give up although it's getting old fixing our appliances. Three weeks ago it was the oven ignitor. Two weeks ago it was the microwave fan. This week the fridge.
After implimenting all suggested "fixes" for the "Evaporator Fan Freezing" issue with little to no effect, my wife came accross a Facebook group, "Samsung Refrigerator Recall USA Now. " This Facebook group reports that there seems to be many customers receiving partial or full refunds for their defective units. I don't recall seeing this information posted on this site; though, perhaps I missed seeing this in the many pages of posts.