We are having the same issue.
Notice the ice buildup in the upper right corner (circled). Notice there is no ice at the bottom of the evaporator...why? Because the defrost heater is doubled up at the bottom (arrow) and doesn't go to the upper corner where the ice is. The defrost heater is doing its job. You can infer that the heater is designed to defrost at the bottom, not the top, and you would be right.
If everything is working correctly, the air is drawn in through the upper vents and enters the evaporator area at the bottom (green arrows, where the heater can defrost the ice properly as needed. And here is where the problem lies:
The area circled above is supposed to seal the air from bypassing the evaporator and going directly to the fan.
If you have ice at the upper part of the evaporator, this seal is compressed and not sealing. There is nothing in that upper area that will thaw the ice and you will have an ice buildup that will accumulate until it reaches the fan blades and need to be manually removed. Eventually it will cause the fan to stall and then your refrigerator will stop cooling altogether.
The solution? Get some weather strip and repair the area that is not sealing. Simple, eh?
My question is if the cable routing was bad and this gasket was damaged during initial factory assembly then why does it take years to show symptoms? We have had our fridge for since 7/2014 and only now are we getting the dreaded fan rubbing on ice noise. Unfortunately our ice buildup was so bad that it stuck to the styrofoam and when I pulled the cover off the styrofoam broke. So I am forced to buy a new evaporator cover. I wish Samsung would step it up just issue a recall or repair action and replace this piece, and fix the cable routing to prevent future occurance. Such a simple thing to do to take care of their loyal customers.
I purchased this fridge in Sep 2014. Since it went out of warranty (naturally) it has had a constant issue of having ice build up on the back wall behind the evaporator fan in the fresh food compartment to where the fan begins to strike the ice. It gets pretty noisy. The first time this happened I had a repairman tell me that it was a defrost drain issue. He fiddled with the drain tubes behind the fridge and had us defrost the fridge for two days. Since then I have had to remove the evaporator covers and defrost the ice about once each month. I have attached two photos of the ice prior to me taking a blow dryer to it. It appears the ice is forming on the back wall rather than the evaporator tubing inside the compartment. The ice then builds up to encase the pipes and then eventually interfere with the evaporator fan. The evaporator coils are always free of frost, which to me indicates the coil defroster is working properly.
I have read several accounts online of other unfortunate Samsung fridge owners experiencing similar issues, but none have indicated a solution other than the one I have undertaken with a hair drier. Is it possible to affect a permanent repair for this problem? Is there a solution at all? I am getting weary of taking the thing apart and defrosting the ice each month and I don't trust repair people to do much but take my $100 and not do anything.
I have the same and an ice makers that's garbage. I paid a tech to thaw it, replace the fan, screw with the drain and yes its level. He stated that it's a design POS and Samsung does nothing. Report them to BBB and FTC.
Well after a few defrost cycles of my own, taking apart the back panel and using a hair dryer I decided to attack the problem.
I think in most cooling systems between the condenser and the cooling fins the tubing is insulated, look at the insulation in your home from the outside unit to the fan. The tubes are insulated. For some reason Samsung neglected this part of the system. The tubes get condensation while I'm still defrosting.
My solution probably needs some improvement, but I think the concept is sound.
I cut down a rectangular piece of pink hard insulation to fit between the wall and the copper tubes. Then using a ziploc sandwich bag I squirted foam inside and secured to the panel next to the fan, ensuring there is no interference to the fan. Once secure I reassembled the back panel to the back wall and hoped for proper expansion of the foam.
One thing I'm confident in is the foam will block a large chunk of ice from forming, and eventually touching the fan, which seems to be the ultimate downfall.
I did this on 8/31/19 so I'll see how things work out!
Have similar issues with RF260B... Looking at several posts, many people say to do a "forced defrost" which some have said is "fd" in the menu. My frige and freezer were BOTH frozen over. I discovered on the ...260...model that "fd" is freezer defrost and "rd" is refrigerator defrost. The heater gets hot enough to sizzle water droplets when it is on. After doing the fridge twice in too big a hurry, we broke the fragile styrofoam edge of the panel. Now I am not sure if the cold air flow will be correct. Also one of the plastic fan blades has a piece missing so I am sure we did that too. I put copper (#14) wire around both (freezer and fridge) elements and threaded it down the drain tube. There is a 90-degree turn so thinner copper worked better. I suspect the first time we only made things worse because we "fd'd" the freezer and melted out the fridge coil with a blow dryer. I am pretty sure the freezer just refroze. So next time, I am planning on emptying the fridge and freezer completely (dry ice is available at some walmarts and some grocery stores). Unplugging and waiting 24 hours with doors open, towels down, and a fan blowing. With the back panel off, you can tell if either or both drain tubes are clogged (some brands need these tubes cleaned occaisionally or similar issues occur).
So like everyone here, I've dealt with this exact issue for about 2 years now. I've tried all suggestions (installing new metal tab into drain hole, redoing the insulating seal on the panel cover, tilting the unit back, etc) and still every month or so, ice will creep into the fan and cause the dreaded noise that signals it's time to bust out the hair dryer again.
I finally got a hold of a repair guy that seemed to be fully aware of the design flaw and had his own solution which I'll share here. He found that installing a secondary defrost heater unit at the top near where the ice first forms appears to prevent it from building up enough to block the fan. I took a peek at the model number and it appears to be SH226 40W - Universal Refrigerator Defrost Heater. He connected the leads into the existing connectors for the heater so it'll turn on whenever the original heater kicks on. I cannot say for sure this will fix the issue as it hasn't been long enough to really verify, but I hope this might be of some use for anyone still struggling with this.
I've marked the locations where he connected the wires. He also had to punch a hole in the middle of it to get it to fit around the little mounting screw/bracket there in the center.
EDIT: It appears this is what he used: https://www.amresupply.com/part/SH226-UNIV-FOIL-HEATER-10-5X10-5-40W