In regards to the accepted solution: I'm assuming it should be defrosted first and then raised? Or will it defrost after raising? Can anyone verify that this works? After reading all about the multitudes of angry Samsung customers and the class action lawsuit I'm feeling a bit hopeless!
Raising the front does work! I have regretted buying my Samsung refrigerator right from the beginning. Not only has it made this terrible noise from only about 2 weeks of ownership, but it had a faulty compressor. Samsung did replace the compressor, but it took 7 visits from 2 different repair companies to convince them. After that, the noise was still so loud tha the appliance store (who also does repairs) took my fridge for an entire month and plugged it in at their repair shop. They said the stupid thing never made a peep while it was there...probably because they had it sitting properly. Basically, I've been suffering this poorly designed appliance since June 2016 for two reasons: 1. It's a crap design and 2. The guys who delivered the appliance didn't install it correctly. They had it sitting on its front wheels - never lowered the legs. Mind you, I had this fridge delivered twice from the appliance store and neither time did they bother to bring down the legs/lift the front off of its wheels.
This week it got so bad that the vibration was causing the top freezer drawer to rattle constantly and the fridge was running non-stop with the ice maker freezing over. So I found the advice to raise the front. I did that on Wednesday. I did not defrost the appliance and I really didn't raise the front very much...just took the wheels about 1/8 in. off the ground. The fridge was already level, just sitting on its wheels. I never did defrost the fridge, just let it defrost itself through regular cycling. It has not made a peep since Thursday!! This is the first time in 16 months that I can sit in my living room and enjoy peace.
So TL;DR - it works!
There is something very flawed with my Samsung french door fridge. I have been using an automatic power graphing monitor to track what is happening.
Back when my troubles began, it all started with the fan noise. That was from a large buildup of ice in the evaporator compartment that eventually grew into the path of the fan blades.
Why does this happen? The refrigerator ices up because the defrost system times out. The defrost system depends upon the defrost sensor to tell when the evaporator chamber has warmed up sufficiently, thus indicating that any ice has melted. Once the temperature threshold is reached, the defrost cycle ends.. If it does not detect a warm enough temperature after 1.5 hours, the defrost times out and will NEVER RUN AGAIN until you shut off the power to the fridge. That resets the error.
How do I know the defrost timed out? First, I can see from the power use graph a drop from 108 watts to near zero, followed by the compressor resuming and power use spiking back up. To verify, if I hold down the Fridge and Freezer touchpad buttons simultaneously for about 8 seconds (until all of the entries on the display light up and flash), then it flashes "25E" for a minute or so. That is the defrost error indicator. As far as I know, the only way to clear that is to remove power from the fridge. Then it can defrost until the next timeout.
Are my wheels off the floor? Yes
Is the defrost working? Yes, my monitor shows 108 watts being used during defrost. That is correct within measurement error. Furthermore, when I open the cover to expose the evaporator compartment, it is free of ice. And the gutter at the bottom has no collected water. The drain is working fine.
Is the sensor bad? I doubt it because I just installed a new one.
Is there anyone who can give me technical support? As far as I can tell, that sort of thing doesn't fit Samsung's belief system.
What is wrong? The last time I cycled through the Samsung "support" system, I was given a trouble ticket number and referred to the only official Samsung repair location in Seattle. They told me I could not talk with a technician over the phone unless I paid something like $80 for a service call. This is to talk with a technician!!!
I am very reluctant to spend money on a service call on a refrigerator that's had so many reports of refrigerator defrost problems. I am simply not convinced that the repair folks can fix this fridge.
Back at the beginning of the thread, there was a claim that all you need to do is tilt the fridge back. Bogus!
A REAL SOLUTION A REAL SOLUTION A REAL SOLUTION A REAL SOLUTION!
This a followup and I have a solution for the defrost timeout problemI posted a few days ago! The root cause is a manufacturing defect that I photographed the first time I took the evaporator chamber cover off the fridge on 9/29/17. Here are the specifics of my fridge which was purchased 3/30/16 Model #RF26J7500SR/AA S/N: <HIDDEN>)
I realized that the defrost sensor and the defrost power wires passed along and across the gasket that is supposed to keep air from passing where it shouldn't. This crushed the gasket and made it less effective. Apparently there was enough movement, perhaps from changing temperatures, that the air leaked more and more.
Once I realized the problem, I fashioned a section of foam-type material to fill in where the gasket had been crushed at manufacture. The results were dramatic! Now the defrost cycle runs anywhere from about 30 minutes to just under an hour. There are no more error messages either.
I have photographs to show what happened as well as samples of the power graphs. I have no doubt that Samsung was at fault and that it would be proper for Samsung to do the honorable thing and repair units like mine free of charge
I used 0.5 mm foam sheeting for wrapping around stuff to be shipped. It is quite squishy. I rolled it into a fairly tight sausage a bit larger than the intact gasket, then taped it loosely in place over the crushed gasket.
It has lots more information and analysis, power use data, error code stuff, and more!
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Below is power use and defrost cycles under normal operation.
Further explanation for graph of power use, etc.
Following the gasket repair, a typical day of power use looks like this. The two spikes on the left and right are combined freezer and fridge defrost cycles, each about 33 minutes. The flattened peak at 3:51 pm is a refrigerator only defrost cycle, also about 33 minutes. Defrost cycles vary between about 25 and 55 minutes with around 35 minutes most common. My kitchen is usually about 65 degree F and does not get opened many times in a typical day.
With the gasket section crushed, the fridge compartment defrost ran for 90 minutes and then time out with a -25E error code. After that, there were NO MORE DEFROST attempts and ice built up from then on. The only way I know to clear that error so defrosting can happen again is to unplug the fridge. But that just leads to another 90 minute effort and timeout!
Question: Does anyone else have power use history measurements? How long and frequent are defrost cycles in healthy refrigerators supposed to be?
Q2: Has anyone else observed misplaced wires and crushed evaporator cover gaskets?
PLEASE LIKE THIS OR COMMENT! I'm trying to learn more from other peoples' experience!