I was so happy to find out about the KSG class-action lawsuit recently. I doubt enough will come from it to buy a new refridgerator but at least Samsung will pay something for dropping this junk on it's customers and not owning up to it.
Our RF28HDEDBSR is barely 4 years old and I've been fighting the ice-maker for almost two years and the cooling fan in the back for a couple of months, niw I'm thawing it almost daily. Today, it sounds like it's going to blow up, it's so loud.
I know, Samsung's solution is to open a service ticket and pay as much as you paid for it to begin with yo have it fixed.
That's enough. After paying more than $1,800 for this heap and $200 more for a Best Buy service plan, we're going to have to buy a new fridge now but I'm keeping this heap in the garage until I find out what comes of the lawsuit.
No more Samsung anything. I even stuck with Samsung after having to return my Note 7 twice, got an S7, and was planning to get the Note 9 in a few months when the S7 is finished being paid for. Not anymore.
I see that there are way too many of us that have issues with Samsung refrigerators. I have an older model (RF4287HARS/XAA) - probably 2013) that was in my home when i bought it last year. I have had it repaired twice by a local company - they replaced the whole back panel after manually defrosting to remove it. First time = $500+. Second time was free, under their warranty and now the noise and warm refrigerator are back! I will have to call them in the morning and see if they will fix it again; it will be OK for 3 weeks, then ........?
Does anyone know if the class action is closed? Are we left with having to purchase new refrigerators?
Hi my refrigerator is making a buzzing noise when the door is closed and stops when the door is open we turned the ice maker off but it still does it. Do you know how to stop it? The model number is RF24FSEDBSR
Don’t bother getting a repair, problem will return. Only fix for this Samsung defect is to defrost the refrigerator, which I am now doing at least once a month. Soon we are just to dump this expensive refrigerator. Will never ever buy anything made by Samsung.
I writing to let you know that you can fix this problem yourself. It does require some very basic mechanical skills .
Here's how to do it .
First check your error codes using the following document.If you have a sensor fault, and you aren't technical, you might need some help to replace the sensor. But the most common fault is 22e which is the R fan .
Remove the shelves and drawers
Look at the back wall of the fridge, there is a plastic cover, usually it says twin cooling on it .
This has four screws. On my fridge the top screw is under a plastic tab at the top of the shelf support rail. Flip the tab with a screw driver and remove the screw. Go straight down and there is another screw, and two more on each side of that.
Now, it's possible you have a lot of ice that will prevent you from removing the cover. So use a hair dryer and get it nice and warm. Then push the cover upwards, and it will pop out, there are a few tabs on each side. If you have to use any force, you are doing it wrong, check you didn't miss a screw.
The cover has two connectors on it. Now unplug your fridge and grab a flashlight .It's possible that you will find a lot of ice and so can't remove the connectors .The white fan connector has a tab on the left side, squeeze and pull. The other connector has a tab on the underside .If frozen, keep working that hair drier.
Move the cover away and blast it with the hair drier to remove ice from all the passages.
Now blast the top of the evaporator where the ice has built up with that hair drier.
Once the ice is clear, move the sensor as described
Now reassemble and switch on the unit .Wait 30 minutes and check the codes again. Your 22e should be gone, never to return. If you have sensor or heater faults, order the sensors from samsung or find them online and swap them. lots of help on YouTube.
Enjoy your fridge again .
BTW, I did make a small modification to try and transfer heat from the heater coil to the top of the evaporator. Unfortunately I was short of time because we are having guests and the boss wanted to fill the fridge back up. I did put the forced defrost on and tested it, it definitely gets heat up to the top of the evaporator, but it could be significantly improved by using a thinner copper wire and seriously increasing the surface area of the copper touching the heater tube. The copper I had was too thick but I decided it was better than nothing for now and I will revisit it if the ice returns .