We have a Samsung Chef series oven that was installed Winter of 2015. The last month or so our top section has stopped heating entirely. Model NE58H9970WS/AA Previous to this I've had ovens for years and years without one issue. It's very unusual to me that a $1000+ oven would already fail within 3 years.
That is so true. Sorry about that I replaced my my whirlpool range of 21 years for SAMSUNG range. Oven problems after 2 years. Fan also freezes and stop working on my SAMSUNG refrigerator. Appliances usually last for years and years. I can’t afford to keep paying repairs. It’ll be cheaper to Change brands. No more SAMSUNG for me
Since nobody else is posting their findings, I thought I would share what I found on mine.
Summary of problem:
My top burners all work fine, oven wont work on any setting.
2 of the 3 larger realys for the oven have failed. There is 4 total relays which supply power to the elements. They are actualy labeled on the board so you know which one is which. The one that says DBL supplies all burners with half of the voltage they need and the other relays supply the other half bringing the element to a full 240v. My DBL relay failed which is the reason why none of my elements get hot. If your main one works then its possible for your bake or broil relay to fail and you would still have one element that would work. In my case both the main DBL relay and the Bake relay failed.
Simplest solution woudl be to replace the entire PCB or if you are comfortable solidering replacemnt relays on the board that would work as well. I personaly will be replaciing the relays as they are only $5-$7 each. I will replace all of the larger 3 black ones assuming if 2 of the 3 failed than likely the other is not far behind. See the atthaced picture. The larger black ones from the left are DBL, Bake, Broil. The little black one (mine is orange) on the far left is the convection element relay.
How to Test
The easiest way to test if the relay is working would be to unplug the connector from the relay and turn the oven on. When the relay clicks and engages you should have continuity on the relay. When it is not on it should be open wih no continuity. I also went a step further and tested the control side of the relay which tested fine on all 3 so it seems the relay is the fail point.
Here is a link to the relay:
Anyway good luck with your ovens... hope this helps.
We have just experienced the same problem within the same time frame as everyone else. Deffinitely thinking never to buy a Samsung product again when this is obviously a manufacturer's issue. Just proved a loaf of bread yesterday and the oven just stopped heating. Anyone know what the issue is exactly? How much do the parts cost? Already found several appliance parts stores near me; the Internet takes two days at least for parts.
We have a gas oven. Is it the ceramic heating coil? Am getting absolutely no glow from the coil.
Yep, now I've got a house full of people for the week, and this garbage oven will not heat. I've had it less than two years. I will never purchase another Samsung product again. You KNOW there's an issue, and keep selling a defective oven???
Thanks for ruining my family's party. I will never forget it. And now we have to find a restaurant for fourteen people who are already hungry. I am BEYOND angry.
How do both igniters go or at the same time. Everything else is still working but the oven, neither top nor bottom will light. It started fine, then a chemical like smell, and stops in the middle of roasting a prime rib.
Barely used the oven, and now I can't find a repair person to work on it. And even if it does get fixed will I need to spend all this money every year just to fix the oven for a known problem.