I have a Samsung Washer (WF56H9100AW/A2) that has not been stopping mid cycle.
I was able to press play again mid cycle and it would complete. Often, I'd have to do that several times during a cycle to get it to finish. This went on for months. No error codes were displayed at first then recently, I started to get the code 3E. Pressing play still worked to complete the cycle.
I researched to code and found it could be the hall sensor, the Invertor motor control board, or the motor itself. It seems the people who have this issue have not solved their problem even after a service tech checked/replaced all the recommended components.
The machine is currently 8 years old, and I don't want to spend $X00s throwing money at replacing parts. Is there a known issue with this model that would cause this problem and if it is the Hall Sensor (on the motor) or Inverter motor control board (sometimes called the PBA) are those parts included in the 10 year Digital Inverter Motor Warranty? Seems to me it should be since you can't have a Digital Inverter Motor without the part that makes it digital (the control board). Who can I contact at Samsung to find out.
Unfortunately It's only covers compressor and motor. I will say this the only way it's worth it to fix it is if you can do it yourself otherwise it will cost too much you're better off just buying a new set. I will also say fixing a washing machine and a dryer is actually much easier than you might think often it's a simple plug-in play.
I can fix them myself but the specific problem I'm having, it stops mid cycle, has no clear solution that I can find anywhere on the web. People have reported replacing the most suspect parts like the Inverter control board (PBA), the Hall Sensor, the Stator, the rotor, the main control board, the dampers and even the full wire harness. I have not seen one confirmed fix yet. I wasn't going to just order $200 parts just to see what solves the problem unless I was fairly confident it would work. I agree with you. It's an 8 year old machine so throwing anything more than $100 at it isn't worth it.
I did tear it down to where I had the drum removed. The only issue I saw was the top counterweight on the drum was cracked in half (not just cracks in the plastic but the cement inside was cracked). I wasn't able to tell until I removed the 3 bolts holding it to the drum. I didn't bother buying a new weight. I mixed up some JB Weld Marine Epoxy, filled the crack and bolted it back to the drum to cure. I decided to put the cracked one on the bottom of the drum because the shake sensor is near the top weight. I thought movement of the cracked weight near the sensor might have been causing problems for the sensor (and resulting in the cycle stops). After reassembling it, leveled it and ran calibration in the test mode. So far we've only done 2 loads. They worked but that doesn't mean much yet. If I get to 10 without an issue, I'll claim success but I don't think it's likely.
