My wife has hated this washer since we got it. Sometimes it works correctly but most often not. It runs on and on with rinse and spin for hours. I have to shut it off and usually put it on the quick wash setting to get it to finish. I saw in your notes that there might be air in the lines. No air! Also reset the machine by unplugging the power and holding the start/ pause button for ten seconds. Neither fixed this issue. She wants it thrown in the ditch but as a life long mechanic I'm sure there must be a cure? Is there any recalls on this washer on this problem? Is there a fix for this issue? Thanks, Frank Ward
It might have been answered here before so sorry if I am repeating what is already known.
A have a front loadnig Samsung washer that got stuck in a continual cycle of wash, rinse, attempt to sping, 5 minutes, back to 34 minutes, back to 3 minutes, then back to 7 minutes before it finally stopped. over and over again.
My front load Samsung washter is only 3 years old so this shouldn't be happening right?
Easy enough. 2 screws take off the back plate and if you see that white bracket in the link's photo hanging and broken plastic around the screw then this is likely your problem. Figure out a way to anchor that white plastic bracket in the position you see in his photos and you are probably back on track. The key is to put that bracket back in the proper place. I followed the above website and used straps. My point here is to look and see if this is what is causing your issues.
My washer is having issues when it gets to the rinse/spin cycle. I thought initially it was just on loads run either on delicate or quick wash, but its happening on the normal wash as well. I can see that its near the end of the cycle and it'll spin a bit, but then the time increases and it starts rinsing all over again. Sometimes I have to just stop the washer completely and ring the water out of the clothes, because it will keep doing this over and over again. Is there a fix for this problem?
My front load washer keeps looping at the end of rinse cycle and does not go into the final spin cycle. The cycle time keeps on restting from 5-7 seconds to 11-12 seconds. Tried the Smart Sense app to trouble shoot but did not resolve the issue. Washer is 5 years old and obviously such issued start when it is out of warranty!
I hope enough people that have any of the poorly engineered Samsung front loading washing machines see this post and it provides guidance to solve otherwise incredibly frustrating and endless research/repair costs. This is a multi-step process to resolve this issue, but likely part of the issue is related to any front loader, in this case it applies to the Flexwash - WV55M9600 model. 2 year old washing machine that can't stand up to normal issues, and conveniently is out of warranty. We first encountered an issue with the machine not turning on, the culprit was the control board, however this is because of the poor engineering of the machine and spill over of liquid - even small amounts - due to how the machine clears the dispenser trays. Disclaimer - this is an explanatory post, please ensure you follow safety and other precautions, if you have doubts about this kind of work or your ability to perform it, you should seek the help of a repair person, and do not void your warranty by working outside its parameters. The issue is as follows:
If your machine is having issues and won't turn on or has other weird issues with stopping or control board/button issues, you probably need to replace the control board - in addition to this, if you have buttons still like we do in this model, you need to be extra careful of ensuring the button doesn't stay depressed when you press it, importantly the power button - according to a tech, this can continue to send voltage which will overload the circuit and kill what becomes a $600 control board, so be careful folks!
In our model specifically, the load from far right hand side bleach or softener trays - even if you do not use these - causes leaks down the right side of the machine, it will trigger an LC1 error numerous times, and likely also related to killing the control board potentially - this I haven't verified. You will note, there will be rust on the bottom righ hand side of the machine most likley, including the right front shock.
Our shocks were shot due to the rust and we had to replace them, find these parts here, note there are two different kinds, 2 for the front, and 2 for the back. You can turn the machine on it's side and replace them through the bottom without having to disassemble the entire machine, takes about 10-15 min to change each one depending on your proficiency, here's a great youtube about it:
If you've changed your shocks and the machine is no longer knocking, you probably also have an issue with the back of your drum - there is a plastic wire harness that can come loose and rattle around. After exhastive search, zip tieing this down was the final solve to our problem, so if you have to change your shocks, make sure to check this part to, it may have ripped a sensor out in the process of rattling, so check the partlist at the sears direct site that you got the shocks from if needed, on ours it's a water sensor.
Now for the major issue, water drain pump. In the following video, the repairman explains the process to tear the machine down to change the drain pump, however in our experience, not only was the pump garbage and damaged, but the pump housing as well, this was a critical discovery. You might be trying to save cost, but the actual pump motor not working was ejecting water back into the machine due to a damaged housing, so might as well replace it all in one shot. We changed the entire thing. The cost of the pump was almost $100, or find it here on Amazon at a 1/3 of the price (it's not OEM? who cares, it's all manufactured in the same factories most likely).
Assuming you've done one or all of these steps in attempts to fix this problem, you probably also as a last step need to do both a calibration and self clean+. Look up your model on how to do both.
Hopefully this post will help someone, it's been a painstaking process to resolve with literally zero help from repair people and Samsung - will never buy one of these appliances from you again Samsung!
I have a Samsung Top Load Washer Model WA422. Recently it strated getting stuck ina cycle of filling with water, aggitating, draining and then filling with water again - repeating the cycle over and over. This process adds 10 mintues to the cycle each time. I have checked that the washer is level and the load is balnced. Once in a while I will get the D error code but when I rebalance the load it does not stop the cycle from repeating. Please help figure out what the issue is.
We just had the recall repair done and our machine still shakes like crazy, I even did the re-calibration and used the delicate cycle and it will not finish a wash, it just keeps repeating the rinse and spin. our model is WA400PJHDWR/AA, serial is Y69Q5AUFB03578W. I can see that this is not a random incident, lots of people are having the same problem, repair guy says it will be $300 to replace the springs.
I'm having the same issue with my washer, model WA45H7000AW/A2. I've already had the recall work done and now receiving the unbalanced load error code for every wash; nothing fixes it and allows the wash to finish. I've even had a service technician out to look at it and could find nothing that is broken or needs to be replaced, but he did say this is a very common problem for Samsung washers. This clearly is a problem related to the recall and the repair work done by Samsung under the recall does not fix the issue.
Good morning, unfortunately, my Samsung washer (WF42H5000AW) I bought two years ago is not working anymore. Since last week there seem to be a problem with the washing drum (?), i.e. when I start the normal washing program the drum is not spinning/rotating fully anymore. Instead, the drum is just shacking a little bit to the left and right and that is it. What is the issue?
In the diagnostic mode, the machine is not showing any error codes. I also inspected the washing drum and looked if there are any clothes or so “behind/underneath” it causing the issue. I was not able to find anything, and manually – with my hands – I am able to spin/rotate the washing drum without feeling any resistance from anything else that is not belonging there. Furthermore, I also think I can rule out that it is related to the water drainage. I used a different program and water was flushing in and out of the machine; the program worked fine until the drum is supposed to spin. By the way, the issue exist for all programs, from “low” to “high” spinning. I've even tried to use the "Spin Only" cycle. Same issue, just shacking a little left and right.
