- About durnyd
a week ago
So I'm guessing more specifically that because of AnyNet, the TV keeps switching the Sound Output device to the soundbar (via Arc). This is what it does for me at least. I notice there is a brief period where if I switch the Sound Output away from this on the TV that D.IN on the soundbar via optical starts working, but then the TV quickly switches back to using the soundbar automatically. I feel like what I need is to have the ability to select None on the Sound Output for the TV and for it to remember that setting for the device I'm using (that way I wouldn't have to constantly switch it). Seems better than turning off AnyNet which I'm guessing is a global setting and not per device. Anyway, Samsung engineers may have a better idea. But overall, just looking for a way to make this simple.
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07-03-2020
02:42 PM
1 Like
Yup, started happening to me again, too. So factory reset did not fix it. Same thing. After being in game mode for awhile, the screen will suddenly dim until I do something like switch Game Mode off and on or the Local Dimming settings. Edit: Actually, before the factory reset I was getting this issue while watching Netflix on my Xbox, and playing Last of Us 2 on PS4. After the reset and firmware update I only had it happen while playing Last of Us 2 on PS4. Another person I know with the same TV has also only noticed it while playing Last of Us 2 on PS4. So I can't tell if the issue was fixed (only an issue with the game or PS4), or partially fixed.
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06-29-2020
12:37 PM
Just to follow up, I haven't had the first issue (whole screen dims) since doing the Factory Reset. I haven't had the second issue (checkerboard dimming) since I toggled Game Mode (even after turning it on again). The third issue seems like it was fixed by firmware update 1301.5 and was referred to in other posts as inverse ghosting. Edit: I've unmarked this as a solution since other people are still having problems with the screen dimming (just hasn't happened for me again).
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06-26-2020
07:11 AM
Ah got it. The large version jump made me think it was a separate versioning and not necessarily the next version after mine. Probably just takes awhile to propagate for updating through the TV interface vs downloading to USB. Thanks!
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06-26-2020
12:38 AM
1 Like
I'm confused about the different firmware versions for the T series. I have a Q90T bought in the US. The US support page shows that the latest firmware for the Q90T is 1301.5, however my TV has version 1115.5, which is listed in the UK page. What's the difference?
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06-24-2020
01:58 AM
2 Likes
I've had my Q90T for just over a month and started having some odd dimming and chromatic abberation issues. Three different symptoms and I don't know if it's recent firmware related (I'm on 1115) or hardware. This didn't happen in my first few weeks using the TV. I've figured out workarounds for some of these. First issue: While watching any content, my screen would instantly dim (whole sceen dimmer). I have all Intelligent Mode and Eco Mode settings turned off so it shouldn't have anything to do with Ambient Light detection. I have Game Mode on, but Dynamic Black Equalizer set to zero and Game Motion Plus turned off. I have Local Dimming Set to High. What I did notice is that when the screen suddenly dims, it's the same look as if I had set Local Dimming to Low. Sure enough, if I switch to Low, there is no change. But when I switch back to High or Standard, my screen brightens back up to what it was before. But after a few minutes... it would dim again unless I toggled the Local Dimming settings again. Now for this issue, I did a Factory Reset... and it doesn't seem to be happening anymore (even now that I'm back on latest firmware). So I'm wondering if the latest firmware broke things when applied over previous firmware updates. Edit: Probably a good idea to specify what TV model, peripheral, application, type of content (resolution, frame rate, HDR) that you have the issue with if you can. Before I did my reset and firmware upgrade, I was getting the dimming issue on multiple devices. Watching 1080p content on Netflix via Xbox One would have the issue, sometimes randomly with my PC, and also while playing on PS4 (specifically playing Last of Us 2). After the reset and firmware update, I actually have only noticed it now on PS4 (again playing Last of Us 2). A friend of mine with the same TV never had the issue, except when playing Last of Us 2 on PS4. So it's unknown to me whether the issue was fixed or partially fixed, and whether there is a separate issue on PS4 or just something in that game now. Second Issue: (edit: I haven't had this again since toggling game mode off and on): I'm getting what seems to be Local Dimming artifacts (checkerboarding). It doesn't matter whether my Local Dimming setting is Low, Standard, or High. When scene content suddenly changes it is very apparent. I get a grid of darkened squares all over my screen that quickly fade to the correct color (it's like the dimming processing is delayed). It's like a 15x8 grid of squares. This one is very bad and it doesn't take much to make the checkerboarding appear (I can move my camera around quickly while playing a game and I'll see it). Interesting thing I ended up trying out was to turn Game Mode off... and it stopped happening. Interestingly, I turned Game Mode back on, and it still is not happening again (don't know if that will last). Didn't matter what input source I had (this could happen on on the Samsung blue screen while the input isn't found). Third Problem (edit: haven't had this since the firmware update to 1301): While playing on PS4 I was noticing a lot of chromatic abberation while moving my camera around in a game. I turned Game Mode off and the chromatic abberation goes away. So seems like maybe some issues with Game Mode?
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06-22-2020
06:08 PM
I think I may have had issues with the 1115 update, btw , on my Q90T. My local dimming was doing weird things. Occasionally it seemed to be switch off (or to low), even though the setting was still on Standard or High (whatever I left it as), until I switched the setting again. Symptoms were that after a few minutes of running, the whole screen would suddenly dim (in the same way that would happen when I switched Local Dimming to Low). Then there were other weird issues on uniform colors (especially blue) where I could basically see the dimming array creating a checkerboard of darkened areas on the screen that would quickly fade to the correct color. I don't have any Intelligent Mode or Eco Mode settings on either so it wasn't related to ambient light. I did a factory reset and things are working perfectly now for me (and currently on update 1115 again). So I don't know if the firmware upgrade didn't do well on top of previous firmware updates.
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05-16-2020
05:43 PM
I don't know much about the soundbar (I'm just another customer looking for answers, too), but I would check a few things just in case: Both HDMI cables (to the soundbar and to the TV) are both high speed HDMI cables. The input and output ports on the soundbar support 4K and HDR. That you don't have another HDMI switch between the PS4 and soundbar that isn't 4K/HDR. The only other option I can think of if all the above is fine, is to buy a 4K/HDR compatible switch so you can plug both the Xbox and PS4 to the switch and the switch to the TV. Some switches do autoswitching, too, when a device is turned on, so that you don't have to manually switch all the time (usually). I just finished FF7R. Enjoy!
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05-16-2020
05:25 PM
My guess is that Freesync maybe isn't playing nice. But, the issue does go away (in games, as well, even if they are running at lower FPS than 120 at 1440p) as long as I have set the refresh rate to 120Hz from Nvidia Control Panel.
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05-16-2020
05:08 PM
My use of the word "banding" may be inaccurate as I'm not talking about color banding. It doesn't matter if I'm running on PC or Xbox. If I show uniform light color scenes, it looks like what I showed in the photos (so color settings wouldn't really matter for the uniformity of a single color). I don't want to exaggerate. It is slight but it is there (and easier to see when using, say, a nearly all white browser window), and interesting that those slightly darker vertical bars in the photos are evenly spaced apart. You wouldn't really notice on darker or colorful scenes, but still disappointing for an expensive 2020 model twice in a row.
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05-16-2020
03:17 PM
After exchanging it for another unit, it's the same if not a little worse. So I guess there is just slight grey/yellow banding. :/
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05-12-2020
11:18 AM
Are you able to turn off Anynet+ on your TV while playing Rocksmith? Not great to have to go through so many menus each time, but this does work for me so that the TV stops switching my soundbar to ARC. Also, Rocksmith is awesome and I very very much understand the pain with any latency! I had the same issue as soon as I tried with my TV through the soundbar with HDMI, which makes it nearly unplayable!
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05-11-2020
07:21 PM
As an update, I don't have to be playing a game for this to happen. If I set my PC resolution to 2560x1440 and 60Hz refresh rate via Nvidia Control Panel, I get the same effect. Again, this is with Game Mode turned on. Doesn't happen with a 120Hz setting (but that doesn't help me in games running at 60Hz with this resolution). I'm moving the control panel left and right here in the image below (the motion artifacts are not the issue). Notice how delayed the rendering is for the bottom of the control panel, though.
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05-11-2020
02:00 PM
Same problem here with a new Q90T and an MS750 soundbar. I would love a more elegant solution for this. I would even take remembering the AnyNet setting on the TV per device.
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05-11-2020
01:55 PM
I would like to know a good answer to this, too. So far the best thing that I have found is to turn off Anynet+ on my TV (Q90T), which isn't the most elegant (for me this was in Settings > General > External Device Manager). That disables ARC, which allows my soundbar to use D.IN instead. I have a PC that uses optical out from a Creative Sound Blaster device to my Samsung MS750 soundbar. The only reason I do this is to force 5.1 audio (otherwise only stereo is detected from the TV). Currently I'm not even using ARC because I don't want to do this clunky workaround. I'm instead connecting devices with a switch to my soundbar, and then to a non-arc port on the TV. The only downside right now is that the TV gives a 5 second warning that my soundbar should be plugged into the ARC HDMI port when I use devices going through the soundbar. This will matter more to me later, though, when I want to use the HDMI 2.1 port on the TV, as I would then have to connect 2.1 devices to the TV and then use ARC for audio since the soundbar doesn't do HDMI 2.1.
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05-10-2020
08:38 PM
I have a PC (with GeForce GTX 1080 Gaming X+ graphics card) connected to HDMI 4 on a new Q90T. My graphics card is on the latest firmware (Nvidia GeForce Game Ready driver 445.87). Consistently, if I turn on Game Mode on the TV, and set my display resolution to 1440p, I get significant screen tearing at the bottom of the screen. It is as if rendering the bottom 16th of the screen is lagging behind. It does not matter what vsync options I choose, it doesn't fix it. It happens on multiple games at 1440p. It does not happen if I change the resolution above (2160p) or below (1080p) this. Is this a firmware issue on the TV? The only fix right now for me is turning off Game Mode. Really not great if I can't use Game Mode. In the attached image, notice how behind the rendering is of the rocks while I'm turning.
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05-10-2020
07:57 PM
1 Like
I just purchased a new Q90T TV, and one of the first things I noticed was the dirty screen effect. Please let me know if the the following photos look normal, because it doesn't look good to me. The discoloration in the middle right of the screen is particularly noticeable (even looks slightly yellowish to me). I need to know if I should exchange the TV. Ignore the rectangle with the black outline on the white screen image. Thanks
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