I shared a review over on 32" Smart Monitor With Mobile Connectivity Monitors - LS32AM702UNXZA | Samsung US (as of 12/23 @ 1:04 PM EST it hasn't posted) where I was encountering the same issue as https://youtu.be/0kBwWa_Tf-A?t=979. I recorded my own video in order inform support. While on the phone, I reposition my monitor to find a button the support representative asked for. Suddenly, the monitor came back to life, blanked out again, and came back after I had to readjust the cables when the cable management strap became a loose.
So now I'm wondering, if the monitor's attempt to power was due to inadequate voltage, caused by the flex of the cable. While troubleshooting, I unplugged/re-plugged the power in the back hoping to get a power cycle reset so I'm fairly certain the power plugged was seated correctly. Another thing that leads me to the quality of the cable is the fact the provided USB-C cable doesn't work.
Upon initial unboxing, I plugged the cable into my laptop, the image would flicker on and off, and at some points, half the screen would get jittery. Upon researching why my setup is maxing out at 30Hz, switching to HDMI to mini-DP, the USB-C stopped working all together. I can hear the chime that the computer has detected a device plugged in, but device manager doesn't pick up the monitor and the monitor doesn't detect a source.
I'm truly at a loss. But in the land of various USB specs, pushing so many pixels, various different types of cables, it's so much more difficult to troubleshoot issues as the failure could be anywhere or anything.
If Samsung support sees this thread, please reply back because I'm wondering if my cables are simply defective...at least I hope that's what it is. Hopefully, someone at Samsung can ship a new set of cables or can use the remote management feature to help troubleshoot the issues.
If the community has any thoughts on why I'm only getting 30Hz refresh rates, I'm open to suggestions. My setup is as follows:
An update, after turning on my computer this afternoon, I experienced the same issues. Except this time nothing worked. I had to send the monitor back for service. Hopefully, they'll find what the design flaw is.
EDIT: Technician stated the unit is defective and I'll have to issues a refund. No word on possible reasons why the unit was defective so I would advise anyone do not buy this product. I have no idea is it's a design flaw or a batch of bad parts.
Received my M7 monitor earlier this week. Not experiencing any issues so far, everything works like it supposed to. My order was delayed by one week for some reason but i hope they managed to fix the issues.
Many thanks for your thread Ryan. My monitor worked fine initially but about 25 days later, the same symptom show up. It was very informative when I saw your thread, I was also suspecting the cable was the problem before I came across your comment. Good thing they let me return the monitor.
Hi quick question, just asking a general question- I have my peripherals (mouse, keyboard,webcam) connected to the USBA sockets on the screen. They work fine with the monitor smart features but do little when the monitor is connected by usbc 3.1 over a gen 2 cable to a laptop. It feels as if as if the screen’s usb hub functionality isn’t there and had mixed answers from Samsung support. Is that your experience too? Peripherals and cable work fine on a LG usbc monitor I have
For those experiencing this issue on monitors that are out of warranty, there may be hope. The issue may be a mechanical/grounding issue.
Background: I purchased a pallet of defective monitors, one of which was an 32" Samsung M7 NIB. I immediately posted it on eBay with a description of the issue. An eBayer by the name of Vijay messaged me a solution and has so-far, worked.
Disclaimer: The following are repair suggestions and you must do this at your own risk. Be sure power is unplugged from the monitor as there are voltages that can kill.
You must remove the back cover. If you do not have the tools (plastic spudger) to remove, I used an old coated insurance ID. An old plastic credit card will work also. Note: The credit card may become damaged beyond use. On the two sides of the monitor are arrow. I inserted the card and very gently, but with some force to start 'popping' off the back cover. Note also that there are no screws holding the back cover.
Once the back is off, you will see two boards; one is for power the other is the computer. On the botton left and right are the speakers. Gently lift off the speakers and place just slightly away from the boards careful not to damage the connections/wiring. Both boards are held to the frame using metal clips. These clips also are the grounding mechanism to the metal frame.
The power board has one screw holding the board in place. Unscrew the screw and disconnect the two ribbon cable connections by squeezing the ends and GENTLY pulling them out. You can then gently slide the board towards you (towards the bottom of the unit). I carefully cleaned the clips with a little isopropyl alcohol and a cotton swab. Re-insert the board making sure all the clips are aligned and properly grasp the aluminum casing.. Rescrew the screw and re-insert the ribbon cables.
The computer board is slightly more difficult. I do not know how to unplug/plug the two large ribbon cables so I left those alone and just disconnected the to black ribbon cable. The speaker cable is slightly different in that you press the plastic lever on the top to release the locking mechanism and gently pull the cable out. Remove the board (unslot) in the same manner as above. For my monitor, this was where the grounding issue is located. After several iterations, I finally bent (sort of) all the clips so that the friction strength was greater. Re-insert (re-slot) the board in the same manner and be sure to replug the ribbon and speaker cables.
This seams to have worked, but since the design to ground is mechanical, there is good probability that the same issue will reoccur. However, I hope this gives you hope regarding your monitor.
